How To Install Roof Drip Edge Video

Acquire the basics of installing an asphalt shingle roof, courtesy of IKO.

When it's time to supplant your roof, the corporeality of information available tin be overwhelming. Lots of websites and videos go into great item on how to shingle a roof. This article from the experts at IKO Roofing will help you make sense of it all past highlighting the basic steps and outlining the fundamental purpose for each covering system component. This commodity is not a substitute for proper live training and IKO recommends that only properly trained professional person roofing contractors appoint in the shingling of roofs.

The side by side time you read the parcel instructions or watch a how-to video on YouTube, you'll have a much better agreement of why roof shingles are installed the way they are.

Here are the basic steps to shingle a roof.

i. Step one in whatever covering project is always safety get-go. Working at heights on a roof presents fall run a risk risks and other rubber concerns. IKO recommends that roofing piece of work be done by qualified professionals who know the best fashion to shingle a roof and take been fully trained in all aspects of roof construction safety. Further, information technology'due south important to review local applicative building codes and ensure the roof conforms to all requirements.

two. Understand the physics of how a sloped shingle roof works. Asphalt roofing shingles simply rely on the strength of gravity to shed water from rain or snowfall cook. If the roof shingles and all accessory roof components are arranged and overlapped with this in mind, the roof should successfully shed h2o. In the dictionary, "to shingle" is defined equally "to lay out or accommodate so as to overlap." Then now permit'south wait at the sequence of overlapping roof construction components to meet how this applies.

3. Deck preparation. Earlier installing whatever roofing materials, brand sure that the roof deck is smooth, properly attached to the roof trusses, dry out and free of any gaps or holes. Having a clean, flat deck surface will assist ensure that the newly shingled roof will besides appear smoothen and flat when finished.

iv. Piece of work from the lesser upwards. Not only are we working from the bottom of the roof, nosotros're also starting with the bottom-almost layer, in terms of covering components. The cobblestone roof shingles are the visible part and the outset line of defense confronting inclement weather condition, but what'southward underneath them really counts.The first material installed at the eave is the drip edge. It literally provides a clean, precipitous border for the start of the roof and protects the lower border of the roof deck from water harm by preventing water from "defying gravity" and wicking back "upwards" before it leaves the roof.

Drip edge is installed under the ice and water at the eaves and on top of the ice and h2o and underlayment on the rakes.

v. Ice dam protection at the eaves. If you live in an expanse where the climate includes meaning cold winter weather, you'd wear boots to protect your feet from ice, slush and puddles, right? Well, your roof and the domicile under it need the same kind of protection that an ice and water protector is engineered to provide. This thin, self-adhering membrane is the next component and it gets installed over the drip edge. Ice dam formation is best prevented past having a proper attic vapor bulwark, adequate attic insulation and thorough ventilation; however, an water ice protection membrane is a wise roofing system component and is likely required by your local edifice lawmaking in cold climates. This ice and water membrane is typically applied to overhang the eaves by one/4″-3/4″. To be fully effective, it should extend upwardly the roof to a point at least 24″ inside the vertical extension of the interior side of the wall. At this time, any valleys on the roof should also be flashed with an ice and water membrane. Why an ice and water protector? Because these membranes work on the principle that their rubberized asphalt coating seals around the shanks of the overlying shingle fasteners, adding an extra caste of water-shedding protection.

Ice dams form when melted snow runs down the roof to the eaves and freezes over again, which forces water back up underneath the shingles.

StormShield Water ice and water protector.

6. Underlayment for overall secondary roof protection. Adjacent information technology'southward time for the roof underlayment, which tin can either be an asphalt-saturated felt or a synthetic roof underlayment. Both offering you peace-of-mind protection beneath the shingles. While the cobblestone shingles will exist the primary water-shedding roof layer, there are many benefits to installing a roof underlayment. The felt is laid in horizontal courses, overlapping the eave ice and water protector by 4″ and the valley membrane flashing by vi″. Note: If your abode is in a region where ice and h2o protector is not required, start the underlayment installation at the eave, overhanging the drip border by 1/4″- 3/iv″. Remember that drip edge nosotros installed at the lesser of the roof? When going upwardly the sloped edges of the roof (chosen the "rakes") it goes on height of the underlayment. Although this seems to contradict the overlapping principle, installing the drip edge over the underlayment at the rakes creates a clean roof edge and provides the underlayment attachment with increased resistance against wind uplift. As well, any wind-driven rain blowing on the rake border would cross the top flange of the drip border and become on top of the underlayment instead of beneath the underlayment where information technology could potentially cause a problem.

IKO's RoofGard-Cool Greyness Synthetic Roof Underlayment gives your roof secondary layer of protection.

seven. Covering the joints and valleys. If a roof is going to leak, it will nearly likely occur wherever the shingle layer is penetrated, interrupted or meets a wall. These are the special areas that crave flashing – an added layer of water-shedding textile to help continue the water running downslope. Valleys can either be open or airtight – open valleys are not covered with shingles, closed valleys are. If your roof will have open up valleys, which IKO recommends, at present is when the valleys should be lined with a pre-formed width of corrosion-resistant metal. Closed valleys are completed during shingle installation. For longer roof operation, IKO strongly recommends open metal valleys. Consummate the awarding of underlayment and valley flashing earlier the roofing shingles are practical. The recommended flashing textile is a 28-gauge galvanized metallic or an equivalent corrosion resistant, non-staining material (bank check with local codes). Middle a 914 mm (36″) width strip of an ice and h2o protector membrane in the valley. The product is tacked in place temporarily along 1 edge. Advisedly peel away the backing, and put it in place, smoothing out whatsoever wrinkles. Start working from the eave, allowing boosted pieces to overlap by at to the lowest degree 150 mm (vi″). Remove the temporary nails. Center a minimum 610 mm (24″) wide, minimum 28 gauge pre-finished/galvanized metallic valley liner in the valley, and fasten with merely enough nails to concur it in place, nailing at the edges simply. Overlap each metal piece by at to the lowest degree 150 mm (6″) and use asphalt plastic cement under each section of overlap. Snap ii chalk lines the total length of the valley, 150 mm (6″) apart at the top 75 mm (three″) on each side of the valley and increasing in width 3 mm (i/8″) per 300 mm (12″) towards the lesser to a maximum of 200 mm (8″). When the shingles are being applied, lay them over the valley flashing, trim the ends to the chalk line and smash the shingles at least 50 mm (two″) dorsum from the chalk line. Cut a 50 mm (ii″) triangle off the acme corner to direct water into the valley and embed the valley end of each shingle into a 75 mm (three″) band of asphalt plastic cement. It's critical to wink around plumbing stacks and attic vents considering they are the most common roof penetrations. Install metal flashings where shingles run into walls or chimneys, likewise. Water ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and help protect around skylights, dormers, turbines and other catchy roof areas. Apply flashing materials in concert with the shingle installation procedure, with both the flashing and the shingles arranged to work together to protect effectually the joint areas.

Flashing is placed around plumbing stacks and vents to help prevent leaks.

Consummate shingle installation above the plumbing stack flashing.

Various Roof Vents

Roof planes that barrel confronting vertical walls at the end of the shingle course are protected by metal step flashing at least 125 mm loftier and 125 mm wide (5″ high and 5″ wide). When applying the new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by a step flashing.

Metal Step Flashing Pieces

There are two simple rules to follow:

• Each flashing should overlap the i below by at to the lowest degree 75 mm (3″), but not be visible below the shingle superlative lap.
• Imbed each pace flashing in a 75 mm (3″) wide application of asphaltic plastic cement, and boom in place. Then the end of each shingle overlapping a footstep flashing must likewise be well embedded in plastic cement.

The metal step flashing pieces are rectangular in shape and style, approximately 250 mm (ten″) long and at least 50 mm (2″) wider than the face up of the shingle beingness used. For case, when using metal flashing with shingles with a typical 143 mm (five 5/8″) exposure (such as traditional 3-tab shingles), the size of the flashing will be 250 mm 10 200 mm (10″ x 8″). The 250 mm (x″) length is bent in one-half so that 125 mm (five″) will attain up the wall surface and the other 125 mm (5″) volition extend onto the roof deck. Notation: Other step flashing sizes are also acceptable. For IKO's Cambridge shingle, with its larger 5 seven/8″ exposure, a 10″ ten 8″ flashing piece is still suitable, since the 8″ dimension is notwithstanding at least 2″ larger than the shingle's exposure dimension. However, when flashing Crowne Slate, with its much larger 10″ exposure, the flashing piece would need to be 10″ x 12″.

To install the flashing piece on the first course, place it over the end of the starter strip. Identify it so the tab of the end shingle covers it completely. Secure the horizontal flange to the roof deck using ii nails. Do not spike the flashing piece to the vertical wall. This will let the flashing slice to movement independently of any differential expansion and contraction that may occur between the roof deck and the wall. Identify the 2d step flashing piece over the terminate shingle in the first form by positioning it 143 mm (5 five/8″) above the bottom edge of the exposed asphalt shingle.

Brand sure that the tab of the shingle in the 2d course will cover it completely. Secure the horizontal flange to the roof. The second and succeeding courses volition follow with the end shingles flashed every bit in preceding courses.

eight. The shingles in the "field" of the roof. Once everything that goes beneath the shingles has been properly prepared and installed, it'southward finally time to learn how to shingle a roof. Regardless of the asphalt shingle type or fashion you've chosen, the procedure is basically the same equally mentioned before – you starting time at the lesser and overlap as you piece of work your manner across and up the roof. First – before you lay the field shingles ("field" referring to the big expanse of roof within the boundaries of eaves, ridge and rakes) – information technology's important to install a preparatory course of starter shingles which are specifically manufactured for that purpose. Just, even if you fashion your own on-site by cutting standard shingles to size, both serve critical functions at the roof'southward eave. They provide a sealant adhesion point for the first course of shingles and provide water-shedding protection at shingle joints as well as at whatsoever cut-outs. Professional person contractors often recommend and utilize starter strips along rake edges in order to yield a straight edge from which all the field courses can brainstorm. Furthermore, these starter strips raise the roof organization's current of air-resistance at the rake. It's critical to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific roof shingle because not all shingles accept the same exposure (the part of the shingle that's visible one time installed), get-go (the lateral distance between joints in successive courses sometimes called 'stagger' or 'border-to-edge spacing') and/or nail placement. Problems may occur if the shingles are given likewise much exposure or too lilliputian or if they're not kickoff by the proper dimension in successive courses (rows of shingles). You must place nails in the proper location and bulldoze them flush with, but non cut into, the shingle. Nailing the shingles correctly is critical to the roof arrangement's current of air-resistance. Proper nail placement is also a requirement for the shingles' limited warranty coverage. If you lot've chosen closed valleys, they are completed as shingle courses approach and run through the valley. The most common closed valley is a "closed cutting" valley, where shingles are installed on the entire roof area on one side of the valley beginning, with each shingle course extending at least 12″ through the valley centerline. Every bit shingles are installed on the bordering roof surface area, the end of each course of shingles is trimmed (cutting) 2″ back of the valley centerline.

9. The hip and ridge caps. You've nailed in the last field shingle and you can meet the finish line from hither. Well washed! In this case, the finish line is the hip and ridge capping. When you install the field shingles up to the top of the roof, you tin't just "bend them" over the pinnacle. Instead, individual ridge cap shingles are used to straddle the ridge and shed water down either gradient. There are various ridge cap shingles bachelor on the market but, once again, the procedure for installing them is based on the aforementioned fundamental principle of overlapping. For hips, showtime at the bottom and piece of work upslope. Since ridges are on a horizontal plane, the upslope principle doesn't employ, then ridge cap shingles are typically installed like this: begin at the end of the ridge contrary the prevailing wind direction, for optimum ridge cap wind-resistance. On hip roofs, it'south likewise adequate to install the ridge caps starting at each cease of the ridge, with the concluding piece installed in the middle of the ridge. The last ridge cap piece should be nailed in identify and, since this will be the only identify on the roof where the nails are directly exposed, the smash heads should be sealed and covered with a suitable asphalt roof cement. E'er remember to apply longer nails for ridge cap shingles. Considering the nails must penetrate the ridge caps and the last class of roof shingles below, you'll demand longer nails to fully penetrate through them to the roof deck.

An example of a hip and ridge installation.

Accept a look at IKO's PROFORMAX Integrated Covering Accessories to come across how the various roof organisation elements described above work together.

At present that you have a greater insight into the major steps involved in how to shingle a roof, you can more fully empathize the nuances of the entire process. Y'all may fifty-fifty appreciate why information technology's recommended to hire a professional!

For even more than detailed data or if you'd like to watch and learn how the pros do it, check out this library of instructional videos on every aspect of shingle installation and roofing components. You can also read our article describing how to replace shingles.

Source: https://www.iko.com/na/pro/building-professional-tools/roofing-101/how-to-install-shingles/

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